Surviving Fashion: Beyond The Hype

For a decade, I've navigated the world of fashion, from retail, visual merchandising, fashion design, styling to crafting impactful visual narratives. This journey has granted me invaluable insights into the industry's complexities and hidden nuances. The fashion system's potential for empowerment and positive change is undeniable, yet it's equally riddled with moral & ethical dilemmas; such as the human cost behind the glamour, the pressure to conform to often unrealistic standards, and the relentless pursuit of fleeting validation. For someone like myself: a fashion artist & business owner there is a constant tension between the artistic and commercial aspects of fashion that presents a significant challenge for many creatives involved. Entering this arena, I never anticipated the depths I'd delve into, the mental exhaustion triggered by the industry's relentless "rat race" mentality, fueled by fleeting trends, ever-evolving technologies, and the constant pursuit of 'popularity'.

Image cred. WooooZine for Fashion Scout x British Council Residency program featuring experimental Macrame by  Danayi Madondo & Apparel by Haus Of Stone

Image cred. Gemma Griffiths dressed in experimental macrame by Danayi Madondo

This text explores the interplay between trend chasing, greenwashing, gatekeeping, and the inauthenticity that plagues certain fashion social entrepreneurship ventures, particularly those led by individuals who exploit the social advocacy space for personal gain. It examines whether the pursuit of social good in fashion has devolved into performative activism, potentially exploiting vulnerable communities through carefully crafted narratives, fair-trade claims, and heart-wrenching stories designed to manipulate both consumers' & donors. I won't be able to delve deeply into all the topics mentioned, but I consider this a good opportunity to touch lightly on some of the issues that have weighed heavily on me for some time.

I consider myself an "African" sustainability and fashion advocate. My desire is to see everyone connected to the African fashion ecosystem thriving through practices rooted in their own space and culture. I envision a system and philosophy built by our ancestors, evolved by us. A system we inherently understand and have autonomy over, with rules defined by the very people who grow the textiles, weave the cloth, and shape the designs. With that said, I am struck by the irony of Africans seeking to re-enter a conversation our ancestors pioneered ages ago as part of their lived reality and existence. Westernization eroded our inherent practices, forcing us to rediscover them within the constraints of Western consumer colonialism. Sustainability has become an inexplicably luxurious ideal, often defined by Western standards – a narrative I constantly challenge within my own work. I want to advocate for a more inclusive definition, rejecting the one-size-fits-all approach. This conversation deserves deeper, more nuanced exploration by all involved. Africans are often told what matters most when it comes to sustainability at a given season, but on the ground creatives alike are crying foul.

Image cred. Studio image of Danayi working on her experimental regenerative textiles.

"The environmental movement cannot succeed if it ignores the lived experiences
​and knowledge of diverse communities around the world."
- Ai-jen Poo | Labour Activist

The fashion industry touts sustainability, yet greenwashing remains pervasive, brands and designers claiming to be sustainable are adopting the label solely for commercial gain and aesthetics, lacking genuine eco-friendly and fair-trade practices. This surge of ubiquitous marketing buzzwords like "sustainable" begs the question: Has it become just another cynical marketing ploy?

What began as a practice born of either culture or necessity for struggling, unfunded creatives seeking solutions to environmental and social concerns, has spiraled into fashion's most popular marketing buzzword, exploited for profit. I recognize the importance of effective marketing. However, it disheartens me that authenticity seems elusive when profit becomes the sole driving force.

Having tirelessly pursued launching my own fashion business, I understood the necessity of translating my art into profit to ensure the sustainability of the livelihoods connected to it. The conversation about sustaining livelihoods throughout the fashion value chain often receives less attention than I feel it deserves. We cannot discuss sustainability without considering the human cost: the people and their livelihoods. Exploitation isn't just an issue perpetrated by executives in distant cities. Corruption and exploitation are prevalent at every level of the system. We must address these ills to find a truly sustainable solution for all involved in the value chain.

​"If corruption is a disease, transparency is a central part of its treatment."
– Kofi Annan | Former UN Secretary-General

My concerns extend to social enterprises. While I strongly support community uplifting (heck, I’m in need of uplifting myself), I oppose performative activism. I find it problematic when marketing campaigns or self-professed philanthropists leverage curated images of underprivileged community groups without consent, genuine engagement, involvement or empowerment. These communities are not passive recipients of aid; they are individuals with voices and aspirations. True charitable efforts, unlike performative ones, prioritize collaboration & impact over public fanfare which has become the modern day case for the ambitious philanthropist and social entrepreneur. Aesthetics over humanity.

"Performative activism is not activism. It's narcissism in disguise."
- Sarah Sophie Flicker

Image cred. The collaborators behind VERNISSAGE | FINNISAGE exhibition (visit exhibition page for more details)

Some social enterprises, unfortunately, function as enrichment plans or disguised philanthropic ventures for their founders. I often find that such initiatives merely tick a box, failing to deliver genuine social impact. While definitive solutions remain elusive we can start by ditching catchy slogans for direct community engagement. Continuous funding without critical evaluation hinders progress. We must explore the "why" behind stagnation, potentially revealing systemic issues that require industry-wide solutions, not just individual charity. Instead of handouts, let's empower communities toward self-sufficiency, building long-term resilience and independence. It's also crucial to recognize that sustainability should be accessible to all, not a luxury for the few. To address performative activism, encourage transparency and hold social enterprises accountable for their impact. Additionally, redefine sustainability by moving beyond Western-centric ideals and embracing diverse cultural perspectives and practices. Finally, empower communities by prioritizing genuine engagement and collaboration over superficial marketing tactics and social enterprise dominance.

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