Sustainability: The Elephant in the Room

“True empowerment lies in allowing people to define
themselves, their choices, and their journeys."
- Yung Pueblo | Poet

Image Cred. captured by Obscura for Marula Wellness ft. apparel by Haus Of Stone

There's been a lot of interesting discussion among my friends and colleagues about the concept of sustainability and who controls the global narrative. In my previous article, "Surviving Fashion: Beyond The Hype," I touched on the major issue of how Western institutions have shaped the discourse surrounding sustainability and disseminated those ideas globally for everyone to adopt. While the concept of sustainability is universal, Western approaches may differ from those in other parts of the world. It's the framing of these approachs that can lead to a one-sided conversation that excludes valuable perspectives arising from diverse contexts like geography, culture, economy and accessibility. The current discussion often appears to be viewed through a Western lens, despite the fact that sustainability has once a core principle in the African experience.

Westernization and consumer colonialism were concepts adopted by Africans. Now, we find ourselves having to unlearn adopted knowledge systems that were originally foreign to us. We are asked to relearn "sustainability," but according to a rulebook not created by us. This simply perpetuates the cycle of consumer colonialism. In my experience, certain Western ideas of sustainability don't always translate well to the realities of running a fashion business in Zimbabwe or elsewhere in Africa. This raises the question: is this "one-size-fits-all" approach truly effective? Or do these concepts need to be adapted to consider cultural and geographic nuances, as previously mentioned?

Image Cred. Ngonizashe Chinhara OTHA ss14
​ft. AMA Beyond

Being a designer in Zimbabwe presents a unique set of challenges. The country's long-standing socio-economic climate makes it difficult to establish long-term goals and plan for the future, as well as develop growth strategies. On my own design journey, sudden currency fluctuations and drastic economic shifts have forced me to make frequent course corrections, reevaluating the market climate each time. While major corporations may have better resources to weather such storms, for independent brands like mine, these shifts can be devastating. Imagine your new business as a newborn baby – a single economic upset, like colic, could be detrimental if not handled carefully. 

A strong foundation is necessary for a flourishing fashion industry. The fashion ecosystem thrives on a variety of elements: skilled labor for garment production, a diverse range of textiles, talented designers, well-established retail channels, relevant technological advancements, and business-savvy fashion entrepreneurs. Government support and educational institutions further strengthen this ecosystem, fostering innovation and growth. Ultimately, economic factors like consumer spending and a culture of creativity & innovation also play a crucial role. 

Zimbabwe's fashion industry currently lacks many of the fundamental elements listed to compete in a meaningful way globally. We face not only the socio-economic challenges mentioned earlier, but also ingrained mindsets that favor Western brands over locally-made products. This colonial mentality persists, with some even traveling abroad for shopping sprees instead of supporting Zimbabwean designers. Considering these challenges, are independent under- resourced African fashion designers expected to thrive or be the sole revolutionaries of change in such an environment? Furthermore, how can we prioritize sustainable practices when current economic realities and limitations in global export make it difficult to achieve the commercially viable and ethical model we envision?

Traditionally, Africa embraced resourcefulness – making only what was needed, when needed. This way of exiting thrived in a time when consumerism wasn't the centre of the universe. This philosophy stands in stark contrast to the mass production and wastefulness that dominate today's fashion world. Consequently, navigating the complexities of this modern industry can feel overwhelming. We, the latecomers to the modern global fashion conversation, struggle to catch up on a fast-paced dialogue. No one seems willing to slow down or grapple with the nuances, leaving us perpetually behind & questioning. Consumer colonialism by the West has unfortunately led to the erosion of many valuable African traditions. Practices once deemed "primitive" are now being rediscovered and celebrated in the name of cultural preservation and the allure of "otherness." However, this often occurs once gain through the Western lens, not ours. We are constantly bombarded with external pronouncements about what matters and how, with little room for self-determination. While we may adapt accordingly, it's often not to our true benefit. The message seems to be, "This is good for you," but is it truly? I yearn for some autonomy, a chance to say "yes" or "no" based on my own needs and perspectives without fear of cancellation, but a hope for tomorrow. The script is out in the open for all to read & subscribe to, or risk falling short of what some would deem a worthwhile career.

Image Cred. GT Bank Fashion Weekend ss19

As an African fashion designers, navigate the fashion industry, I feel confined by a pre-set narrative: slow fashion, "Made in Africa," and cultural preservation. While mass production seems out of reach, the prevalence of greenwashing highlights the reality – fashion is a business, and true sustainability can be expensive. I can't help but feel like the industry demands a sacrificial lamb, and right now, it seems to the forever emerging independent designer. We're trapped in a cycle of chasing opportunities, battling low income, and facing harsh realities.
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Our current success model may, in fact, require us to embrace aspects of mass production and shift our focus to Eastern markets for production & sourcing until Africa can stand on it's own. This could be a necessary step towards building a viable, long-standing, and competitive fashion business. However, this narrative clashes with the principles and values of sustainable design. A truly sustainable future requires a global conversation that acknowledges different contexts and perspectives. In conclusion, "Western sustainability" isn't necessarily a distinct concept, but rather a way of framing sustainability that may have limitations, potentially benefiting some more than others. The question remains: what is the true cost of implementing sustainable practices in their entirety, not just theoretically but in real-world application? The most effective approach will likely be a blend of global knowledge and culturally-specific practices that prioritize both environmental and social well-being. I, for one, will continue to ask the questions and diligently seek out the answers.